Method of making shoes



Dec. 5, 1967 LAGANA 3,355,753

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Jan. 4, 1965 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 I NVEN TOR.

RALPH LAGANA BY ATTORNEYS Dec. 5, 1967 LAGANA 3,355,733

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Jan. 4, 1965 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 United States Patent 3,355,753 METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Ralph Lagana, 157 Beacon St., Hartford, Conn. 06105 Filed Jan. 4, 1965, Ser. No. 423,109 8 Claims. (Cl. 12-442) ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE In making a shoe conforming to the shape of an individual human foot a plurality of pieces of wetted plaster impregnated fabiic are impressed upon the foot to form impressions of associated portions thereof. When the pieces have set they are removed from the foot and joined together to collectively form a mold having a cavity complementing the shape of the foot. A last is cast in the mold and a shoe is built upon the last in conformance with its contour.

This invention relates generally to an improved method for making a shoe conforming to the shape of the individual human foot for which it is made.

The advantages of a custom fitted shoe are well known to those skilled in the shoemaking art. Such a shoe is normally made on a custom last conforming to the contour of the individual foot. Making the last is a difficult and relatively expensive part of the custom shoemaking process. Conventional wood custom lasts are extremely expensive to fabricate, consequently less expensive casting processes are ordinarily employed in producing the lasts upon which custom shoes are buitl. Plaster of Paris is frequently used as a casting material, because it is inexpensive and relatively easy to work with; however, the resulting last is usually quite fragile. The limitations apparently imposed upon the shoemaking process by the use of such fragile lasts have resulted in compromises in the materials and methods employed in custom shoemaking. Nonporous rubber or plastic materials, which lack the qualities of good ventilation, moisture absorption and durability inherent in conventional shoe fabricating materials, are often employed to facilitate molding and shaping of footwear on such fragile lasts. Consequently, the characteristics of durability, comfort, style and appearance found in the so-called ready-to-wear shoe are often sacrificed in order to produce a shoe which properly fits the foot at a cost which is not prohibitive.

The production of a satisfactory plaster last presents a difiicult problem to the artisan and is often an unpleasant experience for the subject. One method commonly employed, requires thatthe foot be enveloped in a mass of moldable material such as plaster of Paris and remain immobilized for a substantial time while the mass of material hardens. Another method produces a so-called slipper mold by wrapping the foot with a plaster impregnated bandage. The latter method, although performed somewhat more rapidly than the former one, tends to distort the foot and does not readily capture the contour detail essential to the production of an accurate last. Both methods require the patient cooperation of the subject, who usually must remain with his foot immobilized in an uncomfortable position for a prolonged period.

Some custom shoemaking processes invariably result in the damage or destruction of the fragile last each time a shoe is made. Such methods require the subject to undergo the unpleasant experience of having foot molds made each time a new pair of shoes is required. Needless to say, the experience may be an almost intolerable one for persons having serious foot disorders.

In view of the foregoing, it is the principal object of the present invention to provide a method for making a shoe from conventional shoe fabricating materials which conforms to the shape of an individual foot.

A further object of the invention is to provide a process for making a custom fitted shoe which is substantially identical in style and outward appearance to a so-called ready-to-wear shoe of high quality.

A still further object of the invention is to provide an improved method for casting a last conforming to the shape of an individual foot.

Another object of the invention is to provide a method for making a conventional type of shoe on a fragile last wihout destroying the last in the process.

The following description and accompanying drawings relate to a preferred manner of practicing the invention, but it will be understood that various changes may be made from the specific method disclosed. The drawings and descriptions are therefore not to be construed as defining or limiting the scope of the invention, the claims forming a part of this specification being relied upon for that purpose.

In the drawings:

FIG. 1 is a side view in partial section showing a foot and the method of taking a plantar impression thereof.

FIG. 2 is a perspective view showing a method of making a negative mold of the foot.

FIG. 3 is a side view of a negative mold of the foot indicating the method of mold assembly.

FIG. 4 is a side view in partial section showing a modification of the method of FIG. 1.

FIG. 5 is a side view of a positive casting of the foot including an extended toe portion indicated by broken lines.

FIG. 6 is a side View of a last showing an inner sole tied in position thereon.

FIG. 7 is a bottom view of the innersole and last assembly of FIG. 6 showing adhesive bonds therebetween in broken line form.

FIG. 8 is a perspective view showing an upper in position upon the last of FIG. 6, the innersole being indicated by broken lines.

FIG. 9 is a bottom view of a partially assembled shoe revealing the bottom construction thereof.

FIG. 10 is a side view of the partially completed shoe showing the method of removing the last therefrom.

In carrying out the process embodying the invention it is necessary to make a last conforming to the shape of the individual human foot to be fitted with a shoe. Thereafter, a shoe is built upon the last in conformance with its contour so that the resultant product of the process is a shoe which complements the configuration-of the wearers foot.

An orthopedic shoe or a custom fitted shoe for a normal foot may be made in accordance with the method of the present invention. The process is particularly adapted for making shoes from conventional shoe fabricating materials such as leathers; however, it should become apparent from the description of the process which follows that any appropriate material from which a shoe can be fabricated may be used in practicing the process. Recently developed synthetic materials intended for shoe fabrication, such as Corfam, a product of E. I. Du Pont de Nemours, should prove particularly appropriate.

The initial step in practicing the process embodying the invention is to form a negative mold conforming to the contour of the subject foot. In describing the process a plaster of Paris impregnated fabric or splint bandage, as it is commonly called, will be employed; however, it should be understood that any moldable sheet material which may be formed to the contour of a foot and which will set and harden to permanently capture the contour impressed therein may be conveniently used. It has been found that a double lamination of ordinary splint band- 3 age material possesses the desired characteristics of strength and formability to produce satisfactory negative molds.

Referring now to the drawings and more particularly to FIGS. 1 and 2 wherein the initial steps of the present method are illustrated, a plurality of splint bandage pieces 12, 14, 16 and 18, rendered pliable by wetting are provided. A foot is impressed upon a first piece 12 with a resilient pad 20 thereunder to produce a plantar impression 22 therein. A most satisfactory plantar impression may be obtained with the subject in a relaxed sitting position and the foot lightly impressed upon the bandage piece, as shown in FIG. 1. Thereafter, the margin portion of the piece 12 is folded outwardly from the foot to form a flange surface 24 surrounding the plantar impression 22.

A second piece 14 is then positioned with one end portion 26 overlaying the forward upper portion of the foot and the opposite end portion 28 overlying one side of the foot. Light pressure is then applied upon the exposed surface of the piece 14 to form an impression of the associated underlying portions of the foot therein. Thereafter, a marginal portion of the piece 14 is adjusted to abut the associated flange 24. The opposite end or marginal portion 28 is folded outwardly from the foot proximate the ankle bone to form a generally planar vertically posed surface perpendicular to the associated side of the foot.

A third piece 16 is positioned overlying the piece 14, the forward upper portion of the foot and the other side thereof. A marginal portion 30 of the piece 16 is adjusted to abut the associated portion of the flange 24 and an end portion 32 is likewise turned outwardly proximate the ankle to form a substantially planar vertically disposed surface perpendicular to the associated side of the foot.

The addition of a fourth piece 18 enveloping the heel of the foot is required to complete the negative mold assembly. Light pressure upon the exposed surface of the piece 18 serves to form an impression of the heel therein. Thereafter, the bottom marginal portion 34 is adjusted to abut the associated portion of the flange 24 and the vertically disposed marginal portions 36 and 38 are folded outwardly from the foot to abut the associated end portions 28 and 32. Sufficient time is allowed for the pieces to set while positioned upon the foot, whereupon the piece 18 is removed from assembly with the other pieces permitting the foot to be withdrawn rearwardly from the cavity defined by the pieces 12, 14 and 16 as best shown in FIG. 3. In practice, it has been found that the pieces gain and retain a sufficiently permanent set after about minutes.

After the foot has been removed the piece 18 is reassembled in its original position relative to the other pieces. Staples 40, 40 are preferably employed as fastening means to assemble the pieces at their respective abutting marginal portions. The assembled pieces collectively form a unitary structure defining a cavity substantially complementing the shape of the subjects foot.

The above-described steps, illustrated in FIGS. 1, 2 and 3, relate to a method of producing a negative mold of the foot for making a conventionally styled mans shoe. FIG. 4 relates to a modification of the steps of FIG. 1, whereby a negative mold of the female foot may be made for producing a last for a womans high heel shoe of conventional type. A rigid support member 42 including a raised heel support 44 is provided for supporting a resilient pad 46 in a position normally assumed by the plantar surface of a female foot when a high heel shoe 'is worn thereon. A splint bandage piece 12a, rendered pliable by wetting, is positioned upon the resilient pad 46 and a foot 104: is impressed thereon to produce a plantar impression 22a therein. Thereafter, the marginal portion of the piece 12a is folded outwardly from the foot to form a flange surface 24a surrounding the plantar impression. A plurality of pliable bandage pieces are thereafter positioned upon the exposed portions of the foot to form impressions of the associated foot portions. The marginal portions of the various bandage pieces are then folded outwardly from the foot to form abutting surfaces associated with the flange 24a and with the marginal portions on adjacent pieces, in like manner with the steps illustrated in FIG. 2. After the pieces have been permitted to set, the foot is removed in the manner hereinbefore described and the pieces assembled by the steps generally outlined with reference to FIG. 3. It will be apparent that the style of the resulting last will be generally determined by the height of the heel support 44.

When a negative mold of the FIG. 3 or FIG. 4 type has been completed, a positive casting of the foot is formed in the negative mold by filling the cavity therein with a quantity of plaster of Paris. After the plaster has set, the fasteners 40, 40 are removed from the margin portions of the negative mold to permit the individual mold pieces to be separated from the positive casting. The resulting positive casting 48 shown in FIG. 5, is an exact reproduction of the subject foot. However, since the toe cap of a conventionally styled shoe does not precisely conform to the shape of the wearers toes an additional step is necessary to transform the positive casting 48 into a finished last. This step comprises the extending or reshaping of a toe portion 50 of the positive casting 43 to conform with the style of the shoe desired. This step is performed by troweling additional casting material onto the toe portion 50 and sculpturing the additional mate rial to the desired last contour. It will be noted that the completed last 52 includes an extended toe portion 54, as indicated by the broken lines in FIG. 5, a plantar surface portion 56 and a substantially flat top surface 58 approximately parallel to the plantar surface.

Referring now to FIG. 6 wherein the initial step of making a shoe upon the last is shown, a hard inner sole of rendered pliable by wetting, and including a raised arch portion 62 is tied in position upon the plantar surface of the last 52 so as to conform to the contour of the last. The inner sole 60 is permitted to dry upon the last there by assuming a permanent set conforming to the plantar surface of the foot.

The inner sole 6!) is adhesively attached to the plantar surface 56 to form a bond therebetween. The adhesive material 64 is sparingly applied to the last 52 at the toe, heel, and outer edge portion of the arch, as shown in FIG. 7, for a reason which will be hereinafter apparent.

The upper portion of the shoe, which includes a plu rality of upper pieces, a plurality of liner pieces and a hard toe piece and a hard counter intermediate the upper pieces and the liner pieces are assembled by the steps conventionally employed in the shoemaking art and will hereinafter be generally referred to as the upper 66. The forward upper portion of the last 52 is covered with paper, preferably waxed paper, to facilitate later removal of the last from the assembled shoe. The assembled upper 66 is positioned upon the last in the manner shown in FIG. 8 and laced thereon with a lacing 68. The bottom edge portion 70 is turned inwardly over the innersole 60 and a strip of leather or welt 72 is sewn to the innersole 60 around the periphery thereof with the bottom edge '70 in assembly therebetween, as shown in FIG. 9 wherein the bottom construction of the shoe is illustrated. It will be noted that the bottom surface of the innersole 60 and the welt '72 and bottom edge 70 define a shallow recess 74.

Additional support for the arch of the foot is provided by a custom preformed rigid arch supporting member 7 6 which is positioned within the recess 74. Thereafter the recess is filled with a flexible filler material 78, which is preferably a mixture of granular cork and adhesive material, to form a substantially uniformly graded bottom surface for receiving a sole in abutment therewith.

The sole is sewn to the welt in the conventional manner to provide a bottom wearing surface for the shoe.

To remove the last from the shoe assembly it is necessary to separate the bond between the innersole 60 and the plantar surface 56. It is for this reason that the adhesive material 64 is applied sparingly in specific areas as aforestated. A flexible metal spatula (not shown), which is inserted downwardly through the top opening of the shoe between the upper and the last is employed to separate the adhesive bond at the heel and arch portions. Light tapping upon the sole of the shoe near the toe effects satisfactory separation of the bond thereat. A hole 82 is drilled into the top surface 58 for receiving a hand tool 84 used to pry the last from the shoe. To facilitate the prying operation, the lacing 68 is removed from the upper. Thereafter, the prying step is performed in the manner shown in FIG. 10. Thus, the last is removed undamaged from the shoe and may be used for making additional shoes, thereby eliminating the necessity of making further negative mold castings of the wearers feet.

The shoe is completed by the addition of a heel 86 which is applied in the conventional manner.

Although the construction of a mans shoe is employed to illustrate the above description of the method of this invention, it should be apparent that a womans shoe may also be made in the aforedescribed manner.

The invention claimed is:

1. In a method for making a shoe conforming to the shape of an individual human foot, the steps of providing a plurality of moldable pieces adapted to set and harden, positioning each of the said pieces on a portion of the foot to form an impression of the associated portion of the foot therein, folding marginal portions of each of the said pieces outwardly from the foot to form abutting marginal portions on adjacent said pieces, permitting said pieces to set, removing said pieces from the foot, and assembling said pieces by fastening means applied at the said abutting marginal portions to collectively form a unitary structure having defined therein a cavity substantially complementing the shape of the foot.

2. The method defined in claim 1 including the additional steps of filling said cavity with castable material to form a positive casting of the foot including a toe portion, and extending said toe portion by the addition of castable material to form a last.

3. The method defined in claim 2 including the additional step of adhesively attaching an innersole to said last to form a bond therebetween.

4. The method defined in claim 2 including the additional steps of providing an innersole rendered pliable by wetting, tying said innersole to said last to form the contour thereof to substantially conform to the contour of said last, and removing the ties securing said innersole to said last after said innersole has dried to the contour of said last.

5. In a process for fabricating a shoe conforming to the shape of a human foot, the steps of providing a plurality of moldable pieces adapted to set and harden, impressing the foot upon a first piece with a resilient pad positioned thereunder to form a plantar impression therein, folding the marginal portion of said first piece outwardly from said foot to form a flange surface surrounding said plantar impression, impressing a plurality of said pieces upon the remaining exposed foot portions to form therein impressions of the associated said foot portions, folding marginal portions of each of the said pieces outwardly from the foot to form abutting marginal portions on adjacent said pieces, folding marginal portions on said pieces adjacent said flange surface outwardly from the foot to form abutting marginal portions abutting said flange surface, permitting said pieces to set, removing said pieces from the foot, and assembling said pieces by fastening means applied at the said abutting marginal portions to collectively form a unitary structure having defined 6 therein a cavity substantially complementing the shape 1 the foot.

6. In a method for making a shoe conforming to tl shape of an individual human foot, the steps of providir four pieces of plaster impregnated fabric rendered pliabi by Wetting, impressing the foot upon a first piece with resilient pad horizontally positioned thereunder to fori a plantar impression therein, adjusting the marginal pot tion of said first piece to form a flange surface surrounc ing said plantar impression, positioning a second piec with one end portion thereof overlaying the forwar upper portion of the foot and the opposite end portio thereof overlaying one side of the foot, applying pressur upon the exposed surface of said second piece to forr an impression of the associated underlying portions 0 the foot therein, adjusting the marginal portion of saii second piece to form a marginal portion abutting th. associated portion of said flange surface, folding tht marginal portion of said opposite end outwardly proxi mate the ankle bone on said one side to form a generall planar vertically disposed surface generally perpendicu lar to said one side, positioning a third piece of sair fabric with one end portion thereof overlaying a portior of said second piece and the forward upper portion 01 said foot and the other end portion thereof overlaying the other side of the foot, applying pressure to the exposed surface of said third piece to form an impression of the associated underlying portion of the foot therein, adjusting the marginal portions of said third piece to form marginal portions abutting the associated portion of said flange surface and the associated marginal portions of said first and said second pieces, folding the marginal portion of said other end outwardly proximate the ankle bone on said other side to form a generally planar vertically disposed surface generally perpendicular to said other side, positioning a fourth piece overlaying the heel portion of the foot, applying pressure to the exposed surface of said fourth piece to form an impression of the heel portion therein, adjusting a horizontal marginal portion of said fourth piece to abut the associated marginal portion of said first piece, adjusting vertically disposed marginal portions of said fourth piece to abut the associated said vertically disposed marginal portions on said second piece and said third piece, permitting said pieces to set, removing said fourth piece from assembly relative to said first, second and third pieces, removing the foot from the cavity defined by said first, second and third pieces, repositioning said fourth piece relative to said first, second and third pieces, and assembling said pieces by fastening means applied at the said abutting marginal portions to collectively form a unitary structure having defined therein a cavity substantially complementing the shape of the foot.

7. In a method for fabricating a shoe conforming to the shape of an individual human foot, the steps of providing a rigid supporting member having a resilient upper surface adapted to support a female foot in a position such as normally assumed by the foot when a high heel is worn upon the foot, providing a plurality of moldable pieces adapted to set and harden, positioning one piece upon said upper surface, impressing the foot upon said one piece to form a plantar impression therein, adjusting the marginal portion of said one piece to extend outwardly from the foot forming a flange surface surrounding said plantar impression, positioning a plurality of said pieces upon portions of the foot to form impressions therein of the associated foot portions, folding the marginal portions of said pieces adjacent said flange surface outwardly from the foot to form marginal portions abutting associated portions of said flange surface, folding the marginal portions of each of the said pieces outwardly from the foot to form abutting marginal portions on adjacent said pieces, permitting said pieces to set, removing the said pieces from the foot, and assembling said pieces by fastening means applied at the said abutting 7 iarginal portions to collectively form a unitary structure aving defined therein a cavity substantially compleienting the shape of the foot.

8. A method for making a shoe conforming to the hape of an individual human foot comprising the steps If making a negative mold of the foot, making a positive asting of the foot in said negative mold, said casting ncluding a plantar surface, a toe portion and a substanially flat top surface, reshaping said toe portion by the tddition of casting material to form a last, providing an nnersole including a raised arch portion rendered pliable )y wetting, tying said innersole to said last to form the :ontour thereof to substantially conform to the contour )f said last, removing the ties securing said innersole to said last after said innersole has dried to the contour of said last, attaching said innersole to said last with adhesive material applied at the toe, heel and outer edge portions of said arch to form a bond therebetween, assembling an upper of the shoe, positioning said upper upon said last, sewing a Welt to said innersole with said upper in assembly therebetween, said assembly defining a shallow recess, positioning a rigid arch supporting mem- 8 her within said recess, filling said recess with a flexible filler material to form a substantially uniformly graded surface for receiving a sole in abutment therewith, sewing a sole to said Welt, drilling a hole in said top surface, separating said bond between said innersole and said last, and prying said last from said shoe with a suitable hand tool inserted into said hole.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 381,551 4/1888 Hitzfeld 12146 1,120,491 12/1914 Hilgert 12146 2,114,337 4/1938 Doree 12-146 X 2,332,000 10/1943 Murray 12142 2,701,887 2/1955 Nolan 12142 2,955,326 10/1960 Murray 12-145 X FOREIGN PATENTS 871,225 6/1961 Great Britain.

JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primary Examiner. H. H. HUNTER, Assistant Examiner.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION Patent No. 3,355,753 December 5, 1967 Ralph Lagana It is hereby certified that error appears in the above numbered patent requiring correction and that the said Letters Patent should read as corrected below.

Column 3, lines 27 and 28, for "posed surface perpendicular to the associated side of the foot" read disposed surface generally perpendicular to the side of the foot Signed and sealed this 4th day of February 1969.

(SEAL) Attest:

EDWARD J. BRENNER Commissioner of Patents Edward M. Fletcher, Jr.

Attesting Officer 

1. IN A METHOD FOR MAKING A SHOE CONFORMING TO THE SHAPE OF AN INDIVIDUAL HUMAN FOOT, THE STEPS OF PROVIDING A PLURALITY OF MOLDABLE PIECES ADAPTED TO SET AND HARDEN, POSITIONING EACH OF THE SAID PIECES ON A PORTION OF THE FOOT TO FORM AN IMPRESSION OF THE ASSOCIATED PORTION OF THE FOOT THEREIN, FOLDING MARGINAL PORTIONS OF EACH OF THE SAID PIECES OUTWARDLY FROM THE FOOT TO FORM ABUTTING MARGINAL PORTIONS ON ADJACENT SAID PIECES, PERMITTING SAID PIECES TO SET, REMOVING SAID PIECES FROM THE FOOT, AND ASSEMBLING SAID PIECES BY FASTENING MEANS APPLIED AT THE SAID ABUTTING MARGINAL PORTIONS TO COLLECTIVELY FORM A UNITARY STRUCTURE HAVING DEFINED THEREIN A CAVITY SUBSTANTIALLY COMPLEMENTING THE SHAPE OF THE FOOT. 